There has been a change in tone this season in the men’s shows. Before the collections, I spoke to some of my favorite menswear prophets and experts, looking for some mood control. Most of them agreed that the fall 2023 season would usher in a return to couture, and that the general mood would lean towards classicism and a renewed vision of traditional elegance.

    This is the case for some of the most high-profile shows of the season: at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello established an uncompromising symbiotic relationship between his womenswear and menswear collections, the decadent glamor of the former informing the latter, while Kim Jones has redoubled its enthusiasm, couture vision of the men’s wardrobe at Dior Men with expressive cuts and sumptuous materials that set the bar high for the season. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection anchored in traditional silhouettes, cropped as if to adapt to the modern “man”. And after seasons of playful and provocative Duchamp experimentation at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson also introduced a palette cleanser; forming an essential wardrobe made of lush silks, leathers and… metal.

    If the last few years have represented a departure from tradition – away from clean cuts, leather soles and sartorial elegance – 2023 finds designers eager to rework the classics, only now they apply what they gleaned from the recent fashion experimentations with queer aesthetics, women’s basics, loungewear and streetwear.

    Sewing is no longer just the corporate uniform, but another prime tool for remixing with the rest of our wardrobes. Dropped shoulders and a wide, pulled-forward fit were two directional ideas this season, and designers found classic office wear ripe for an update. Now a more regular sight in menswear, skirts have been around for a long time, finally finding a singular silhouette versatile enough for all wearers of menswear (which maxis were all the rage in womenswear last year n is no coincidence). Draped, sheer and embellished “going out tops” also presented a strong, focused message this season: It’s time to ditch those black tees and get dressed up.

    Elsewhere, puffer jackets have evolved into extravagant power-puff experiments, while the loungewear and athletic recreation that was so essential at the start of the pandemic has morphed into veritable outing propositions. Check out 9 fall 2023 menswear catwalk trends that are setting the tone for the year ahead.

    The exit top

    Goodbye, basic t-shirts.

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